Parka, the new Longfellow coffee shop and restaurant, is brought to you by a trifecta of Minneapolis institutions: Dogwood Coffee, Rustica Bakery, and Victory 44. Parka emphasizes carefully sourced ingredients, the subversion of expectations, and elaborate yet playful presentations, all in a casual setting. The result is both humble and high-end. Parka's interior is like a brightly accented lodge, updated for the modern age. Its food, from Victory 44 chef Erick Harcey, is classic Minnesota: goulash, chicken wild rice soup, even cranberry jello salad—but surprising at every turn: Ham-and-pickle tots, rabbit meatballs (in the form of two little sandwiches with apricot-and-pistachio chutney), a take on chicken wild rice soup with the broth poured into your bowl tableside, a meatloaf sandwich with bacon-tomato jam. Desserts here are no slouches, either, with a deconstructed banana cream pie and a selection of homemade bars and Rustica cookies that come with a flight of three local milks. PHOTOS BY E. KATIE HOLM.