Karta Thai is a small, friendly but frill-free restaurant on Central Avenue in Northeast, on a street known for great cheap eats. Karta excels in riskier Thai dishes, like a whole walleye and the addictively savory Gang Ped duck curry. The good stuff really was tremendously good, especially considering that almost every dish was $10 or less. Some of the standard (maybe Americanized?) dishes were less successful. Entrees varied from one-dimensional to stunningly complex, but portions are generous and often come with delicate creations carved from carrots. Try the spring rolls and deep-fried appetizers called "Golden Karta Special," which look like some ocean creature but are ground chicken wrapped with squiggles of thin noodles and fried till crunchy. PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN CARTER GRIMES.