For those of you who haven’t been keeping up on the North Loop’s food hall drama, 729 Washington Ave. will become home to the North Loop Galley in just a few short weeks.
Merely a stone’s throw from summer darling (and direct competitor) Graze, the whopping 8,000-square-foot food hall is set to open its doors to the public, where the sampling masses will find vendors including Ono Hawaiian Plates, Soul Fu, and Thigh Times Birdhouse waiting to fill their bellies.
In addition to the (stellar) roster of vendors above, this plucky newcomer has something that’s been glaringly missing from the metro area: Detroit-style pizza. Though Jet’s has been serving the style for a while, Wrecktangle Pizza will be the first in the Cities to specialize in this regional form of ’za known for its deep profile and cheesy crown that bleeds all the way to the edges.
City Pages chatted with Jeff and Alex Rogers (brothers in pizza and life) to get the dish on Wrecktangle’s big debut.
First things first: Wrecktangle exists because Jeff’s loves pizza. All pizza. But especially this kind of pizza. “My favorite style of pizza is Detroit-style pizza. The rectangle shape, the crown of cheese and the crust…”
Jeff is the chef of the duo, packing years of service industry experience under his belt. He was kind enough to break down what makes Detroit-style pizza so distinct, and why it rules so hard.
It all begins with those hallmark steel pans, which were once repurposed from Detroit’s assembly lines, and a sourdough base. As Jeff explains, “a mixture of low-moisture mozzarella and Wisconsin brick cheese [is] built all the way to the edge, so when it cooks you’ve got the nice crust from the cheese along the edges that like builds up the walls of the pan. Then it usually has sauce that’s hot already put on top, then it’s cut and served like that.”
Alex, the brother who’s forte lies in business and organization, interjects to add that though it may resemble “thick-crust, deep dish pizza” at first glance, “it’s main characteristics [are a] light and airy crust with that caramelized cheese on the outside.”
Though the Rogers brothers are positioning Wrecktangle to blow minds one square pizza at a time, their ultimate goal is to have fun, and be approachable with this thing that’s going to be new for so many people.
To Jeff, that means taking this Rust Belt darling and putting a hometown spin on it. “We like to think it’s Detroit-style pizza through a Minnesota lens.” What exactly does that mean? Their menu ranges from standards like pepperoni cooked ’til they cup (“they’ve gotta roll, you’ve gotta have that natural casing, the curl, or else you’re not really doing Detroit-style!” says Jeff), a range of build-your-own toppings, gluten-free crust and lactose-free cheese options, plus unique house concoctions like the Tatertot Hotdish Pizza, which could only find love here in Minnesota.
Wrecktangle Pizza opens to the public December 16 in the North Loop Galley.