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With weekend morning hours and an all-new menu, Bull's Horn defines dive-bar brunch

Smoked meat hash, chorizo toast, and a shareable side of hash browns to balance the whole thing out.

Smoked meat hash, chorizo toast, and a shareable side of hash browns to balance the whole thing out. Emily Cassel

Were you to time travel back to the old Sunrise Inn and tell the guys nodding off at the bar that someday, this place would serve bottomless mimosas, you'd likely be laughed right back to 2018.

"Sure," they'd chuckle around a mouthful of cigarette smoke. "And someday, Donald Trump will be president."

But we don't have to tell you that these are different times, both for the White House and for the former 3.2 bar, which was reborn as Bull's Horn Food & Drink a little less than a year ago.

Under the loving watch of star chef Doug Flicker and wife Amy Greeley, the south Minneapolis hole in the wall has been reborn, and slowly -- faithfully -- transformed. It's still wood-paneled (and the bar continues to boast a number of cigarette burns), but the bathrooms don't look like a crime scene now. A delightful little patio opened earlier this summer.

Among the latest changes at 4563 S. 34th Ave.?

Brunch. 

On the chorizo toast, a pile of meat several inches high.

On the chorizo toast, a pile of meat several inches high. Emily Cassel

This, too, is something of a return to the Sunrise days. The dive did serve a pretty basic weekend breakfast: your eggs, your omelettes, your pancakes.

But like the rest of the menu updates from Flicker and Greeley, Bull's Horn takes those barroom standards and chefs 'em up. Among the yolky newbies, you'll find brown butter pancakes with fried pecans, plus biscuits and red eye gravy with chicken thigh. In addition to the aforementioned mimosas -- available bottomless or by the glass -- there are also bloody beers. (Bull's Horn has strong beer and wine, but still no liquor.)

As is true for all the best diner or dive-bar breakfasts, you get both quality and quantity here. On a recent Sunday, we went for an order of chorizo toast, its thick brioche bed piled with a mountain of spicy meat, a beautifully poached egg, and so much avocado that Chipotle would have charged you extra. A pop of pickled onion and a sour cream drizzle polished the whole plate off. In the smoked meat hash, creamy, garlicky aioli sat somewhat confusingly below the rest of the meal, but that hash was dense and savory, the kind of fill-you-up fare that'll get you good and ready for an autumn leaf-peepin' hike. 

We're also happy to report that -- while it's listed under the Kids Brunch section -- they'll happily accommodate any adults who ask, "And can we get a bowl of Lucky Charms to start?"

A magically delicious experience, through and through.

Brunch is available Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. through 2 p.m. and is family-friendly, fun with friends, or enjoyable alone -- they'll have football on TV behind the bar, and the jukebox is always ready for your quarters.