Underacheiver at Eli's: A lazy day drink of the week
Orange, spice, and citrus rum turn an afternoon off into a celebration
Underachiever Eli's Food and Cocktails $7.50
Eli's just gets it. From the fact that almost all the menu items are draped in bacon, gourmet cheese, or house-cured meats to the fact that you can get any of these items past 8 o'clock on a weekday, Eli's has had the upscale, classic comfort food thing down pat before it was trendy. And they understand that sometimes, when the situation (or lack thereof) calls for it, you need a pint glass full of various complementary spirits that taste good, go down easy, and keep you company while you wile away the hours. Loafer, meet Underachiever.
This cocktail, one of a few adventurous offerings on a menu that leaves ample room for classic martinis, was built to be drunk by day. Deceptively potent and very smooth sipping, Underachiever combines citrus rum with orange and a tropical-tasting, clove-like Arongimon syrup, made in house. The rum, that most versatile of liquors and drinkable in any season or setting, blends seamlessly with sweet, viscous Grand Marnier and the tart effervescence from a top-off of sparkling wine. The spice element isn't overly wintery as we originally feared, but rather adds a complexity and a layer of unexpected flavor that builds beyond the first taste like a good curry.
Our friend Underachiever won't push you to your limits, but it is tasty, it's effective, and if your goal du jour is to do a whole lotta nothin', you will certainly succeed after a few of these. Our only regret is missing the "cellos" on the menu, which are house made, with a changing lineup of flavors. It'll be a struggle, but for homemade limoncello we'll put a return trip to Eli's on the top of our dusty to-do list.
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