The St. Paul eatery has garnered some well-deserved national attention in the magazine's January issue. In an article titled "The New American Tavern," writer Andrew Knowlton has the following to say about the Strip Club Meat and Fish:
Despite a menu of dishes with gimmicky names like "XXX-cargot" butter and "Ooo la la" foie gras, the place delivers on a serious promise: to use sustainable ingredients in offerings like Swede Hollow meatballs and walleyed pike fritters. Beers from nearby Rush River Brewing Co. add to the local experience.
Not too extensive (and it seems unfair to knock the gimmick in such a brief mention), but it must be nice to get some recognition. And while the Strip Club seems more like a restaurant with good drinks than a bar with good food to us, the "gastro-tavern" label is apt enough for a place that's as careful with cocktails as the Strip Club is. Bon Appetit picked up on the local beer selections, but other libations are even more interesting: They have on offer not only homemade limoncello and sometimes other liquers, but also house-made tonic (which is delicious; who knew what a difference a good tonic could make?). And of course, the food does more than just come from sustainable ingredients; creative and tasty preparations abound.
The East Side gem is coming up on its one-year anniversary next month, and is still going strong despite its out-of-the-way (at least for Minneapolitans) location. The restaurant's perch in Dayton's Bluff does offer stellar views of downtown St. Paul that should please any visitor, and the building's history as a speakeasy makes an interesting conversational tidbit (take a close look at the fireplace upstairs; it's actually on a door that opens to a back room, now used for storage).