The Lowry : A first taste of Uptown's newest restaurant, part 2

The Lowry serves from breakfast to late night tastes for Uptown tastemakers

The Lowry serves from breakfast to late night tastes for Uptown tastemakers

The Blue Plate Company, owners of such neighborhood spots as Highland Grill, 3 Squares, and Edina Grill (among others) has arrived in Uptown,  located on Hennepin Avenue near Franklin in what was once a video store.  Customers can crawl out of bed and pop in for breakfast any day of the week, recline on the patio for a comfortable lunch, meet a date for a pint or glass of wine on tap, and hang out late enough to count as morning.

Yesterday we spoke with Stephanie Shimp about the location and soundtrack selected for the restaurant (catch up with part 1 here.)  Today, we taste the food.


Fat, tall biscuits come dressed in creamy, pork-sausage-studded gravy alongside eggs and a small tin with a couple of slices of fruit.  We requested scrambled, which were delivered light, fluffy, and tender.  A pet peeve are eggs that are strangled into sheets of tasteless disappointment; these eggs retained their dignity.  The gravy tasted like fennel, pork, and cream with just a hint of savory sweetness--a proper B&G that would banish any hangover.

The Shirred Eggs were served poached over diced ham, with mushrooms and a healthy dose of truffle oil, and with a side of char-grilled toast fingers, ready for dunking in the sultry sauce. The only disappointment was that the eggs were cooked until the yolks were firm, when a running golden sauce would have been such a fine accompaniment.

Their take on a continental breakfast was easily the best and simplest thing on the table.  Sumptuous, pristine Greek yogurt topped with candy-sweet, ripe blueberries with a side of local honey and homey blueberry scones.  Chef Dustin Pallansch came out from the kitchen to show us some of the honey he was serving.  Bare Honey is locally produced by people who care about their bees and farm without using chemicals, and the care is in the flavor.  The color is like an early morning ray of sunshine captured in a little condiment cup.  The flavor is light and lush.  Pallansch talked about how thrilled he was to find them and to be able to use his passion for local ingredients in some of the dishes at the Lowry.

As if we needed any more sweetness, we also ordered the banana waffles, flying in the face of convention that breakfast doesn't come with dessert.  Light, crispy textured Belgian waffles, familiar to any fan of the other Blue Plate Company's breakfasts, were drizzled in dark chocolate and studded with cut bananas.

A sweet end to a breakfast stuffed with care and comfort.