Soberfish: The Tour

Elle Kunsawat and Pao Thao, owners of Soberfish, the Thai-Japanese-Pan-Asian one-stop-shop that took the place of beloved True Thai in Seward, have a formula for fusion proven by years of success in their other ventures. Americanized Thai classics like pad Thai and sweet-and-sour chicken seem right at home next to flavor-blasted sushi rolls and watermelon mojitos. The menu is expansive: 26 appetizers, five soups, seven salads, seven curries, nine stir-fry options, five noodle dishes, four fried rice varieties, and a sizeable sushi menu. With this yawning expanse of a menu unfurled before you, a nagging, unshakeable fear might arise that Soberfish is a jack of all plates, master of none. But there are bright spots here, on the wok stir-fry menu in particular, where the Fresh Young Ginger — served with your choice of tofu, chicken, pork, or beef — offers a light, savory oyster-garlic-soy sauce with pops of sliced fresh ginger and toothsome wood ear mushrooms. Soberfish was originally dubbed Drunken Fish, then Drunken Sake once the owners realized that name was already taken. When Drunken Sake was later deemed too suggestive, Kunsawat and Thao went with Soberfish — a somewhat confounding decision for a bar pushing its boozy happy hour specials, including $11 bottles of wine, $2 off sake, and a $7 Soberfish shot (you keep the shot glass!) The ample happy hour runs from noon to 6 p.m. and from 9 p.m. to close on the weekends and 2 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close on weekdays. PHOTOS BY SASHA LANDSKOV

Check out our review of Soberfish in Seward...

2627 E. Franklin Ave., Minneapolis