The accomplishment of Parella chef Todd MacDonald's cooking lies in its subtle quietude. In a smoked, potted eggplant that masquerades as foie gras with unthinkable levels of sumptuousness. In a "Misticanza of 20 greens and herbs" salad hiding expressions of green varietals that fire like pyrotechnics in a night sky. In masterful handmade pastas that softly reveal the secret of their skill like a shell exposing a living thing. When asked how he approaches his kitchen, MacDonald rattles off Italian regions the way you or I might scan titles on our bookshelves. He knows them the way you know the names of your neighbors and their particular quirks and nuanced distinctions. "In summer, it's fish heavy, like they do things in the warm weather regions of Sardinia, Sala [Consilina], and the Amalfi Coast. In fall, I'm more thinking about Parma, Bologna, Piedmont, Tuscany, and Alto Adige. As the weather gets colder things almost tend to go as far as Austria, and the way they do things in the north. Heartier, richer." At Parella, you'll come as close as dining the way they really do in regional Italy as is possible in our town.