Il Foro is different. It's elegant, yes. They have crudo and handmade pastas. But here is what we like the most: Rolle, a Midwestern-born Italian American from the big, gregarious Italian family of your imagination, has a certain flirtatiousness when it comes to his cooking. He excels at technique, but then winks at those of us who grew up on red sauce, fat noodles, and garlic.he pasta section is where things truly shine. If you're any fan at all of Bar La Grassa, you'd be wise to head over to this side of downtown, where they give that old stalwart a run for their flour and egg. All photos by Galen Fletcher.