Many of the dishes at L'Etoile du Nord are specialty items. The moules frites are a Friday lunch special only, when the mussels are still as alive as the sea. The waffles Benedict are for Saturday and Sunday only, when a close eye can be kept on the quality of the hollandaise. The pastries are on rotation, depending upon Vrambout's inspiration that day. The phrase "best ever" will drift to the front of your mind. Just like in Europe, the cuisine at L'Etoile is stealthily understated. The menu is a tight compendium — only a dozen or so items, plus those handful of pizzas, plus perhaps a special or two. That's because very few products are allowed in the door if they come from further afield than, say, Wisconsin. So as you dine, keep a close watch on the minimalism of it all. It might seem simple, but it isn't. It's complicated.