Como Dockside: A gleaming, ambitious lakeside pavilion

Imposing chandeliers hang from echo chamber ceilings, stately upholstered chairs hunch resolutely on the wood floors, and white-shirted staff hustle and bustle. It has to be the prettiest waterside concession this side of Europe. Bonus: A gleaming embankment of bottles promises libations untold. There are hits and misses on Dockside's very ambitious menu of 40 or so items that practically make up the compendium of Creole cooking. The simplest are the best: nibbles like fried green tomatoes with a lacy batter and rich, spicy remoulade. Or pimento cheese spread over rustic garlic toasts. Or hush Puppies toasty brown on the outside, plush and tender within.