Pilgrimage: The Tour

Sometimes you look down at a menu and it travels all over the globe and you start to get a little worried. What if they can't convincingly pull off Japanese, German, and Mexican all in the same day? But it seems like Pilgrimage is doing it: A fried banh mi managed an inventive take on a sandwich that's been so tinkered with the only thing left was to tie it in a knot. Here, two savory donut-like pillows provided a landing pad for sweet-tangy hoisin-braised pork and a big pile of refreshing pickled veggies. It was devourable. A winsome chimichurri Philly brings Latin flair to an American classic, with steak cooked to temp preference and a chimichurri that stands up and sings the way it ought to. It's garlicky, bright, herbaceous, the kind of topping that makes a sandwich a sandwich. Toss in a couple bevies, staff who know the meaning of the word "service" (they couldn't be any more accommodating), and this place is not only the sort that completes a neighborhood, it's the kind worthy of your own pilgrimage. PHOTOS BY E. KATIE HOLM

See also:
Three New Twin Cities Eateries Up Their Neighborhoods' Appeal