What's a trendy neighborhood without a purveyor of organic, artisanal bagels?
Since Rise Bagel Company swung open its doors, the North Loop may never be dogged by that question again.
On Saturday, the homegrown bagel operation upgraded to a permanent storefront after years of selling at the Fulton Farmers Market and local pop-ups. Owners Jen and Kate Lloyd have made it their mission to bring handcrafted "old-world" bagels to the Twin Cities. We have suffered a shortage of bagel shops for too long. Let us heal.
As you enter the spiffed-up former warehouse, a counter juts out to greet you, extending under glass the five prototypes of bagels on offer that day. Rise keeps the lineup rustic and familiar: sesame, poppyseed, plain, salt, and everything.
One bagel will run you $1.75; it's $3-$3.75 for a bagel with cream cheese (including a vegan option!) and spreads. A half-dozen go for $8.50, a full dozen, $16.50. They aren't cheap, but then, their ingredients (organic) and methods (hand-made and then "rolled, boiled, topped on both sides and baked") aren't cheap either.
The bagel produced at Rise is not the dense, bread-bomb of modern chain shops. It's slimmer, crispy on the outside with a slight chew, and soft at the center. It makes for a balanced topping-to-bagel ratio.
In addition to the straightforward bagel-and-shmear options, Rise serves a handful of breakfast and lunch sandwiches. Grab an egg and cheese for $5.50, or spring for the classic lox with cream cheese, capers, and onions for $12. We were quite taken with the inspired "Artisan" breakfast sammy, with egg, bacon, melty Havarti, arugula, rosemary butter, and apple mustard, a worthy treat at $8.
Open-faced sandwiches bring a little more fun to the menu, like the Pop Tart, topped with buttercream frosting, strawberry preserves, and, of course, sprinkles. For something completely outside the box, the Wonton takes a sesame bagel and loads it up with jalapeno cream cheese, sweet and sour sauce, hot mustard, and crushed wontons. Both items are $5.
Lunch starts at 11 a.m. (breakfast, for the record, goes all day) and includes a tidy list of three sandwiches: smoked turkey, roast beef, and garden veggie, for $8-9. Wash down your bagels with locally roasted coffee, organic tea, local soda, or Topo Chico bottled mineral water.
And a touch to make you nostalgic for your favorite New York bagel shop: The sandwiches come wrapped in brown wax paper and sliced in two, paper and all. Go halfsies with a friend or save one half for later — if you can wait that long.
Rise Bagel Co.
530 N. 3rd St., Minneapolis
Monday through Friday, 6 a.m.-2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.
Correction: An earlier version of this article misstated the price of a bagel with cream cheese/spreads. The post has been changed to reflect the correct price.