For years, excellent and forward-thinking Clancey's Meat and Fish was the only local thing going in a freestanding butcher shop focusing on sustainable, regional, organic product. Kristin Tombers and crew are the butchers who not only know your name, but also the name of the farmer and probably the cow from which your meat has come. Recently, St. Paul Meat Shop arrived to give discerning meat lovers on the other side of the river something to sink their teeth into, and come late September, Lowry Hill is getting a serious butcher shop, sandwiched (ha ha!) in between Burch Steak and the brand new Bradstreet. It shall be called Lowry Hill Meats.
You know Erik Sather from heading up the meat and seafood department at Seward Co-op, but before that as chef de cuisine of Italian powerhouse Bar La Grassa and before that as a Clancey's butcher, just to call out a small specimen of his impressive resume. You may not yet have heard of the Underground Food Collective and Jonny Hunter or Mel Trudau, but you're about to. They're an outfit out of Madison, Wisconsin, with a butcher shop, a salami line, a small restaurant, a catering company, and a food truck. And they're about to have another butcher shop, along with Sather as partner: Lowry Hill Meat shop. "Everything they do is small and excellent," Sather tells me.
And that's what LHM is gonna be all about — small and excellent. Sather is calling it an "open" butcher shop, where the butchers' tables are all exposed to the public eye, and even the walk-in coolers will be encased in glass, so you have full access to everything that's happening with your meat. "So you'll be able to get your espresso and watch and ask questions and know all about your food. It's very important right now — people want to know where their food is coming from."
So not only will you be able to get all your cuts of meat from whole animals off sustainable, regional farms, you'll be able to get sandwiches made from those meats, and local farmhouse cheeses too, and all the good pantry items chefs like to have around like olive oils and balsamic vinegars and mosardas and farm fresh eggs — you know the ones — and that's not all!
Sather calls the space "small but big" meaning it's about 1,500 square feet — just enough room for 20 or so people to sit around at tables, enjoy their sandwiches and a glass of beer or wine, and then pick up meats and all the stuff I just mentioned above for dinner.
"Think of it like Marlow & Daughers or any of the other best butcher shops in the country. You're going to feel very good about everything you can get here," says Sather. "It's going to be a whole educational experience."
We already feel good about it, don't you?
Look for it in late September, with daytime and early evening hours, daily.
Franklin & Hennepin