Meritage's matzo ball soup: 50 Favorite Dishes, no. 37

Chicken soup with matzo ball
Chicken soup with matzo ball

It's the simple things in life that bring the greatest satisfaction. A sunny, warm day in spring, a pair of jeans worn in just right, and a steaming bowl of perfect soup.

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Meritage may be best known for oysters and crispy pommes frites. Its killer cassoulet is still on the menu, and smoked, confit wings are an astoundingly rich take on a bar-food favorite. Chef Russell Klein's French restaurant does elegant decadence well. What might come as a surprise to some fans is that it also serves a lovely bowl of matzo ball soup.

Tendrils of chicken-scented steam waft from the pitcher as the broth is poured over the matzo ball as it's served. The matzo is as tender as a mother's love. The broth is rich with succulent chicken essence seasoned with little leaves of dill. The carrots, cut into perfect, tiny dice, are just toothy enough to add some substance -- nubs of vegetal sweetness. It's a bowl of bliss.

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410 Saint Peter St.
St. Paul, MN 55102


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