When you walk into Maya, a cornucopia of food is spread out before you, like Chipotle went to college and came back all refined and legit and ready to do real work for people who know what real work looks like. There's a menu overhead, but you can largely ignore it (unless you're concerned about pricing, which you shouldn't be, because every single thing rings in under 10 dollars). The food itself is the true menu. What's looking particularly unctuous, fresh, fragrant, and glorious? Well, it all is, and it can be agonizing to choose. There's not just one kind of chicken, there are three: mild, medium, and hot, and they're all wonderful. There is barbacoa, probably the best in town, and the al pastor, mouthwatering and dripping with real pineapple, and Yucatan-style cochinita pibil where pork is roasted in banana leaf, rendering it so moist and locking in so much flavor you'll have no use for any other pig roast again. There are at least a half dozen more meat options from chorizo to lengua, and over a half dozen ways in which to enjoy them: tacos, quesadillas, tamales, tostadas, salads, burritos, huaraches, and tortas. It can be agonizing to choose, yes, but there's no wrong choice here. PHOTOS BY TONY NELSON
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