Lulu's market has been operating for years at the corner of Selby and Fry in Merriam Park, but in the past few months it has undergone a major facelift and added a kitchen. Neighbors have watched expectantly as the gleaming interior pulled together and a counter and tables appeared, until finally the menu was put up on a chalkboard and Lulu's began to deliver food. The owners also recently extended hours, delivering until 9 p.m. now that the college students have returned.
Now that the deli is open, how is the food?
The French fries alone are delicious enough to inspire a following. Cut fresh from russet potatoes and fried golden, they are dusted with a healthy dose of salt and crispy bits of fried mint. Served with a rose sauce on the side, they are hearty and addictive.
Another hit are the kotlets. Finely ground beef and potatoes formed into a cake and deep fried, these are a heavy, starchy, crispy hangover banishment prescription and would chase every lingering regret from your veins. They're available in a basket, with fries for $6 or as a platter with rice and a side salad for $8.
Vegetarians are in luck as well, because Lulu's serves the finest falafel available by delivery in the Highland/Merriam Park area. (Sure, it's also possibly the only one, but let's not split hairs.) Baskets are only $5--crazy cheap.
If you're in the mood for something a bit more Midwestern, the deli features two Juicy Lucys on the menu, from a cook whose last place of employment was the Blue Door Pub, just down the street. The Wisconsin cheese curd version is gooey and enormous.
Not all items were out-of-the-park hits. The gyros sadly feature the pre-sliced meat available in the grocery store kits. Still, Lulu's is only a couple of months into this new venture.
Coming soon: a website with online ordering.
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