'Hipster meets Midwest culture' at Hi-Lo Diner, says USA Today columnist

Hi-Lo, should you go?

Hi-Lo, should you go? Star Tribune Photo by Tom Wallac

We already know that Hi-Lo's burgers and fries are some of the best in town.

Now, the new/vintage diner has a national nod from USA Today's roving eater Larry Olmsted (@travelfoodguy), who shouts out Hi-Lo's inventive takes on classics in this morning's paper.

"Just about everything on the menu is gussied up in ... creative fashion and just about everything sounds good," Olmstead writes. "But the reason for a first visit to the Hi-Lo is not for a new way to try old dishes, it’s for the new dishes you won’t see anyplace else."

He recommends the Hi-Lo staples: those gloriously greasy sweet and savory Hi-Top pastries (he went in for the Mac Rib, which he couldn't quite finish) and the gooey Silo sandwiches. ("Far from small," but "more manageable than the Hi-Tops.")

The open-faced Hot Beef Commercial gets a nod, too, as does the Bloody Mary.

"The draw is a mix of offbeat creations, reinventions of diner classics, and a general homage to Minnesota food specialties and traditions," Olmsted says.  

But is it pilgrimage-worthy?

Nope! Sorry, Hi-Lo. The columnist doesn't think it quite justifies making a trip, though he does add that it's "really interesting and a glimpse into hipster-meets-Midwest culture."

We say if it's good enough for Adele, it's good enough for us.