"Just about everything on the menu is gussied up in ... creative fashion and just about everything sounds good," Olmstead writes. "But the reason for a first visit to the Hi-Lo is not for a new way to try old dishes, it’s for the new dishes you won’t see anyplace else."
He recommends the Hi-Lo staples: those gloriously greasy sweet and savory Hi-Top pastries (he went in for the Mac Rib, which he couldn't quite finish) and the gooey Silo sandwiches. ("Far from small," but "more manageable than the Hi-Tops.")
The open-faced Hot Beef Commercial gets a nod, too, as does the Bloody Mary.
"The draw is a mix of offbeat creations, reinventions of diner classics, and a general homage to Minnesota food specialties and traditions," Olmsted says.
But is it pilgrimage-worthy?
Nope! Sorry, Hi-Lo. The columnist doesn't think it quite justifies making a trip, though he does add that it's "really interesting and a glimpse into hipster-meets-Midwest culture."
We say if it's good enough for Adele, it's good enough for us.