Gourmet magazine's pact with the devil


Hell's Kitchen owner Mitch Omer and his famous caramel roll, courtesy Gourmet.

Jane and Michael Stern, authors of the Roadfood column, rave about their trips to Hell.

The road-weary travelers penned a glowing review of the restaurant's Minneapolis and Duluth outposts, including a particularly lengthy and poetic wax on the caramel rolls. They also made this bold proclaimation about the two (Minneapolis and Duluth) locations of Hell's Kitchen:

It is the best place in either town, among the great restaurants of the Midwest, and high on the list of our favorite places to eat anywhere.
Whoa! Even if they mean the best informal, inexpensive "Roadfood" in either town, it seems like broad strokes considering the team hasn't spent too much time exploring the local cuisine. Yet looking at their list of recommended Minnesota restaurants, (Murray's butterknife steak is Roadfood?) ) I'd say Hell's is arguably the best, overall, of the bunch.

Last time the Sterns visted Hell's Kitchen, it was in its old location--to find out how it weathered the move, watch for a Dish review coming later this month.