comScore

Best dishes countdown #73: Pastas at Monello

Mozzarella-filled tortellini tinted with the spring green of basil pesto was like the aroma of the garden.

Mozzarella-filled tortellini tinted with the spring green of basil pesto was like the aroma of the garden.

Fat and seductive, the pasta section at fine-dining Monello is our focal point when we want to be satiated and wowed. Chef Mike DeCamp has a wizard's touch with eggs and flour — noodles and shapes with pockets to conceal yet more surprises. With more than a half-dozen variations on the menu, they become a canvas for color, for seasons, for sauce. Even strange but wonderful bedfellows like tea, tahini, or avocado make appearances. 

A mozzarella-filled tortellini tinted with the spring green of basil pesto is like the aroma of the garden — the fecundity of soil and oily essence of herb. Bobbing around in chamomile broth and finished with golden tomatoes, parmesan and fresh herb, it was a Polaroid of summer on the tongue. 

Now that ice has obliterated these particular possibilities, DeCamp will offer an of-the-moment approach: butternut squash cappelletti, roasted beet agnolotti, rigatoni with Middle Eastern spices. But don't settle. Treat yourself. A half-dozen different pasta preparations goes for $65 (add wine pairing for an additional $40). 

Monello

1115 Second Ave. S., Minneapolis 

612-353-6207

monellompls.com

100: Caramel-Bacon Puffcorn at Red Cow

99: Pappadams from the Curry Diva

98: The Kingfield at Five Watt

97: Raspberry Cream Scone at Sun Street Breads

96: Bacon and Bourbon from 6Smith

95: Biscuits and Gravy at Ward 6

94: Burgers from Peppers and Fries

93: The Everything Bagel from Rise Bagel Co.

92: Bent River Camembert from Alemar Cheese

91: Two large pizzas and a pitcher of beer, Original Red's Savoy

90: Boiled Peanut Hummus at 4 Bells

89: Chaksuka from Shish

88: Fried Green Tomato BLT from Butcher and the Boar

87: Charcuterie Board at Surly Beer Hall & Restaurant

86: Quiche from Le Town Talk

85: Aloo Tama from The Himalayan

84: Caramelized Cauliflower at Libertine

83: Banh Mi Joy Dog at Prairie Dogs

82: Salmon Poke at District Fresh Kitchen & Bar

81: Savory Waffle at Birchwood Cafe

80: Kofta from Mim's

79: Medianoche at La Ceiba

78: Spicy Golden Tofu from Peninsula

77: Chicken Fantastic from Safari

76: Ramen at Zen Box

75: Puttanesca at Foreign Legion

74: Salted caramel hazelnut tart at Eastside