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Best dishes countdown #69: Beef tartare at the Commodore

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Classic is the name of the game at the Commodore. It had to be — the art deco grande dame was and is utter perfection before its recent restoration. To tinker with it too much would have been blasphemous. The cooking also needed to remain in the realm of old standards, which can be tricky to get right every time, yet accelerate enough to capture attention. 

The tartare does both things adroitly. A standard but delicious tartare is invigorated greatly by the addition of delicious refrigerator pickles, that are about as Minnesotan as the history that makes this place so great. It's simple, yet beautiful, time-honored yet adaptable, fitting its context in a just-right way.  The Commodore 79 Western Ave. N., St. Paul 651-330-5999 thecommodorebar.com

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94: Burgers from Peppers and Fries

93: The Everything Bagel from Rise Bagel Co.

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