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Fargo's Burger Time chain arrives in West St. Paul

The Bacon Double is a near-impossible to tackle giant.

The Bacon Double is a near-impossible to tackle giant. Mecca Bos

The latest burger chain to land in the Twin Cities is the Fargo, North Dakota-based home of the "bigger burger": Burger Time, where a standard patty weighs in at 1/3 pound and arrives looking like a real thing, not the pre-fab Frankenfood we’re accustomed to at other chains.

Which isn’t to say that Burger Time is in competition with the likes of Shake Shack or Five Guys or In-N-Out. It’s more like somewhere in between. 

You'll find no dining room here, which means there’s something timelessly evocative about the place, akin to the walk-up counters of Dairy Queen or The Dariette. This is a place to make a summertime memory. A smattering of tables outside, the curb, or your car make for the ideal supper setting. Kids can run wild on the sidewalk instead of some formica “Playland.”

At $4.99 the standard cheeseburger is an undertaking, and an excellent value. "More good food for your money," is the Burger Time motto, and they're not kidding.

The bacon double at $8.74 is a colossus, and near impossible to finish. With standard-issue lettuce, tomato, and mayo, it’s better than a Whopper, but not as luxe as a Shackburger.

The fries aren’t worth looking twice at, but if you’re an onion ring lover, race right over. They appear hand-dipped and fried and taste of real onion. Each one is toasty-crisp and excellent.

At Burger Time, the great outdoors (or your car) are your dining room.

At Burger Time, the great outdoors (or your car) are your dining room. Mecca Bos

Avoid the “street tacos” which are nothing more than passable homestyle flour tortilla tacos with standard-issue ground beef. Other interesting menu items include gravy (for what, we aren't sure, though we always like to have the gravy option just in case) corn dogs, chicken fries, and queso blanco --because again, why not have the option?

In the age of the “better burger” bordering on the gourmet, Burger Time is a refreshing throwback to old-fashioned fast food. It may only be a little bit better, but it’s good enough.

1011 S. Robert Street
651-450-4557
itsburgertime.com