The new space is huge and the beer list is robust, featuring a large selection of craft beers and a few accompanying beer flights. I was there to concentrate on lunch so I studied the menu and decided on the Which Came 1st? Sandwich (how philosophical!) over the grouper sandwich. Essentially, this sandwich is half genius and half madness: The Bulldog plays on the ancient chicken or the egg question by piling shredded chicken on a bakery bun before layering on a fried egg and cheddar cheese. Lettuce, tomato and onion (sandwich trinity) top off the proteins and everything is finished off with garlic mayo.
When I received an enormous basket filled with the sandwich, potato chips and a pickle spear, I I dressed the sandwich and dug into what eventually amounted to a huge dissapointment. The chicken was moist, juicy...and totally flavorless. The fried egg was dry bubbly and rubbery. The outside edges were actually a crispy caramel color indicating the egg had been neglected for far too long in the pan. The cheese had the texture and taste of something that had sat under the salamander (aka, the kitchen's broiler) for a bit too long, which certainly didn't help the cause. The lettuce, tomato and onion freshened things up a bit and the garlicky mayo added a nice kick, but couldn't make up for the other egregious offenses.
Sandwich Rating: Hey, It's Nourishment. The sandwich was great in concept but was an executional nightmare. Next time I head to the Bulldog I'll stick closer to their sweet spot and have a Chicago dog and one of their awesome beer flights.
Epic Sandwich Copyright 2009 by Teddy Hobbins