Epic Sandwich: Modern Café's pork, kimchi and hog fat sandwich

Modern Cafe's roast pork and kimchi sandwich

Modern Cafe's roast pork and kimchi sandwich

Last week's horrid weather mix left me with no choice but to head out for some serious comfort fare. I quickly ran down the list of good comfort joints in my head, and remembered that a few friends had recently visited the Modern Café, and praised its pot roast mightily. Given that, I decided it was worth some investigation.

A quick review of the menu revealed many comforting lunch classics including a meatloaf sandwich and an especially captivating grilled cheese, but in my quest to always press for the obscure, I ordered the roast pork sandwich with kimchi. I figured a good dose of roast pork would help warm my bones and the creative addition of kimchi would help to lift my spirits.

At first glance everything looked good to go. The pork was oozing some nice juices onto the pile of kimchi and butter lettuce. But my first bite left me bewildered: The ciabatta had great grill marks but proved to be excruciatingly dry. Despite the juices, the pork was surprisingly bland, and had a ton of fat on it - like Kirstie-Alley-on-a-bad-day fat. I know fat equals flavor, but that wasn't the case here. The pork was sliced and layered on the sandwich so there was no escaping it short of pulling everything out - not the way I like to enjoy a sandwich. Thankfully, the kimchi boasted a pleasant heat, offering an anticipated lift and needed crunch to help the cause.

Sandwich Rating: Hey, It's Nourishment. I wanted to get over the fatty pork, but the unpleasant texture hung around like a fart in a phone booth. The kimchi was good, and an exciting accompaniment, but wasn't nearly enough to make up for the duo of pork-based offenses. To this point, all Modern Café chatter had been positive, so there may be a pot roast visit in my future, but I'll hold off on the pork sandwich for now.

Epic Sandwich copyright 2009 by Teddy Hobbins