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  • Pot of Gold

    Article

    Pot of Gold

    Rainbow Chinese Restaurant and Bar 2739 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.; 870-7084. The kitchen at Rainbow is arranged in a C shape around the inferno of Tammy Wong's woks. These are carbon-steel bowls ranging from the size of a large pizza to the size o...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on March 4, 1998
  • From St. Paul, With Love

    Article

    From St. Paul, With Love

    Moscow on the Hill 371 Selby Ave., St. Paul; 291-1236. I often wonder what I would put on the menu if required to open an "American" restaurant in some far-off cosmopolitan center, like Moscow. Burgers and fries, of course, but what then? Gu...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on February 25, 1998
  • Old Man River - Perhaps it's best to say that Saji-Ya has entered a period of rest after its long spate of medal-winning in the early '90s.

    Article

    Old Man River - Perhaps it's best to say that Saji-Ya has entered a period of rest after its long spate of medal-winning in the early '90s.

    Saji-Ya 695 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 292-0444. It's wisdom that you never step in the same river twice; it's commonly accepted that no two siblings grow up in the same family; it's possible that you never even walk down the same street twice, w...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on February 18, 1998
  • Five Ways To Avoid VD

    Article

    Five Ways To Avoid VD

    Mickey's 1950 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 698-8387. 36 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 222-5633. Top Hat Lounge 134 E. Fifth St., St. Paul; 228-1347. White Castle 608 Central Ave. N.E., Mpls.; 379-4935. Vegas Lounge 965 Central Ave. ...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on February 11, 1998
  • A Cure for the Twentieth Century

    Article

    A Cure for the Twentieth Century

    Blue Nile 2027 E. Franklin Ave., Mpls.; 338-3000. I have seen the best minds of my generation sit hunched over like fetal weasels trudging through digital sludge, emerging with nothing but crooked spines, irrelevance, prurience, kitsch, and sta...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on February 4, 1998
  • Words Can't Do Auriga Justice - If I told you that Auriga is thoroughly congenial! charming! and very, very nice!, would you read any further?

    Article

    Words Can't Do Auriga Justice - If I told you that Auriga is thoroughly congenial! charming! and very, very nice!, would you read any further?

    Auriga 1934 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.; 871-0777. Leo Tolstoy opened Anna Karenina with the observation that all happy families are happy in the same ways, but all unhappy families are uniquely unhappy. With this line he neatly summarized the cen...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on January 28, 1998
  • South Pacific

    Article

    South Pacific

    Bali Hai 2305 White Bear Ave., Maplewood; 777-5500. I love running around the urban lake near my house, I enjoy all the detail of a deep winter landscape--the rust-red twigs of certain bushes making cloudy fireballs on the horizon, the battered...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on January 21, 1998
  • Minneapolis's Prized Patrons of Pizza

    Article

    Minneapolis's Prized Patrons of Pizza

    Pizza Luc 119 N. Fourth St., Mpls.; 333-7359. You should see the tempest that ensues when we pick Editor's Choice for best pizza in the "Best of the Twin Cities" issue: Ordinarily articulate cultural thinkers start sputtering and turning red; ...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on January 14, 1998
  • The Triumph of Pomp Over Taste

    Article

    The Triumph of Pomp Over Taste

    The Capital Grille 801 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.; 692-9000. Here are some things that give me headaches: social circles in which trophy wives are considered reasonable goals, unoriginal art, homonyms. So every time I left the Capital Grille I had to...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on January 7, 1998
  • Come for the Cigars, Stay for the Cake

    Article

    Come for the Cigars, Stay for the Cake

    Cafe Havana 119 Washington Ave. N., Mpls.; 338-8484. Cigars remind me of Bugs Bunny. Cigars are hot. Bugs Bunny is hot. Among Bugs fans, maybe one-fifth like him for fully realized reasons--because he's a wise-cracking, street-smart iconocla...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 31, 1997
  • The Fish That's Not a Food

    Article

    The Fish That's Not a Food

    Olsen Fish Company 815 N. Fifth St., Mpls; 332-3533. Pearson's Edina Restaurant 3808 W. 50th St., Edina; 927-4464. Let me pile up my credentials in a big Christmassy heap here: I've watched lutefisk-eating contests. I've followed lutefisk h...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 24, 1997
  • A Lot of Spice Makes Everything Nice

    Article

    A Lot of Spice Makes Everything Nice

    Cafe Ceylon 1278 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 695-1730. Steven Sears thinks Americans eat funny. "There's a whole symphony of flavors in the world, and Americans work with just three notes: sweet, fat, salt. That's why Americans have such problems wit...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 17, 1997
  • Ted Cook's Family of Alchemists

    Article

    Ted Cook's Family of Alchemists

    Ted Cook's 19th Hole Barbeque 2814 E. 38th St., Minneapolis; 721-2023. Barbecue is alchemy. It's the art of taking the least desirable parts of animals--their ribs, shoulders, briskets and such--and transforming them to culinary gold. It's an a...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 10, 1997
  • Article

    Twice as Glittering for Half the Stress

    Yes, everyone greets New Year's Eve with a certain amount of trepidation. You're supposed to have fun, and not just reasonable amounts of fun; you're supposed to have amounts of fun that make you leap onto a table and shimmy the night away, while y...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 10, 1997
  • No Can Do on Man Doo in Eagan

    Article

    No Can Do on Man Doo in Eagan

    Hoban 1989 Silver Bell Rd., Eagan; 688-3447. I've been losing a lot of friends lately. At least a dozen in the past year, all moved to seek better lives in New York and California. They tend to blame Minneapolis pretty heavily for their leaving...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 3, 1997
  • Article

    Happy Birthday Charles Albert

    Today, December 3, is Charles Albert Pillsbury's birthday. Born in 1842, in Warner, New Hampshire. Who knows what the face of Minneapolis would look like if Mr. P hadn't set up shop here. We've probably got a lot to be grateful for in that respect,...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on December 3, 1997
  • Kabul Kibbitz

    Article

    Kabul Kibbitz

    Da Afghan 929 W. 80th St., Bloomington; 888-5824. There are a lot of places where people aren't meant to be. The grassy medians that separate highways, the unlined service roads that connect big box stores, and the Bloomington industrial area w...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on November 26, 1997
  • Produce Results

    Article

    Produce Results

    I was feeling feisty when I fielded a call from Jack Bishop's press agent. Bishop has just published a book called The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook (Houghton Mifflin, $35), and his publicist told me that Bishop had spent loads of time in It...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on November 26, 1997
  • A Tale Told Over Spaghetti

    Article

    A Tale Told Over Spaghetti

    Caf di Napoli 816 Hennepin Ave., Mpls.; 333-4949 (take-out: 814 Hennepin Ave., 333-9019). Imagine this: It's 1938 and the very young, very handsome son of an Italian fruit wholesaler is entrusted with the management of his parent's new, beauti...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on November 19, 1997
  • Where the Gyrokone Stops

    Article

    Where the Gyrokone Stops

    Falafel King 701 W. Lake St., Mpls.; 824-7887. 1501 University Ave. S.E., Suite 209, Mpls.; 379-2504. First, it was nothing but shock. There I was, mincing garlic for some pasta, the TV supplying some always-needed background static, when ...

    by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl on November 12, 1997
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The Copper Hen brings country charm to Eat Street The Copper Hen brings country charm to Eat Street

Based on the clarity of concept, the fittingly homey aesthetic, and the fact that nearly every seat in the dining room and on the sidewalk patio was filled on our… More >>

Soberfish brings Thai-Japanese fusion to Seward Soberfish brings Thai-Japanese fusion to Seward

When scientists at the New York University Polytechnic School of Engineering recently discovered that sober zebrafish will follow drunk zebrafish around the tank, impressed by their fast, aggressive swimming and… More >>

Tiny Diner has big dreams in Minneapolis Tiny Diner has big dreams in Minneapolis

Don't forget to check out all our photos from Tiny Diner in Powderhorn! It may seat only 56 inside, but Kim Bartmann's Tiny Diner is taking measures to educate, affect,… More >>

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