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68: Coup d'Etat's Gnocchi

Potato gnocchi are deceptively complicated, but ordering them at Coup d'Etat is easy.

Potato gnocchi are deceptively complicated, but ordering them at Coup d'Etat is easy.

Though it's a rustic dish, a way for Italian farm women to deal with leftover potatoes, you probably aren't going to fuss with it at home. You haven't the brawn or the brains of an Italian farm woman. First, press your baked potatoes through a ricer, then blend a dough with flour and egg. Now roll. Now cut. Now blanch. Now sear. Now make a sauce.

No? Coup d'Etat to the rescue. See also: 69: Birchwood's Black Bottom Coconut Cream Pie

The gnocchi found there are just the ones described above, with a trained chef's sleight of hand to boot. The little potato dumplings are worked just long enough to come together, giving them the weight of miniature marshmallows.

A toasty sear is essential and each one boasts it, as if they'd been individually pressed into the pan with loving attention. Only then are they finished with a glaze of truffle butter for luxurious decadence. A dusting of Parmesan finishes with a little chive for color.

They're a study in what the best Italian food has to offer -- a few ingredients coming together to create a triumph of the sum of its parts, nothing extra, nothing new, but ingenious just the same.

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