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66: Red Wagon Pizza's Sausage Espagnole

It ain't all about pie at Red Wagon Pizza

It ain't all about pie at Red Wagon Pizza

When did it all become all about charcuterie boards? No one even knew what that French term meant until all the cool chefs started busting out their pink salt and their butcher's aprons and expecting the whole world to know the difference between a Soppressata and a Finnocchiona. But we'll take good old-fashioned meat cooked over fire instead, any day of the week.

See also: 67: Egg, Cheddar & Bacon Biscuit Sandwich at Colossal Cafe

The Sausage Espagnole at Red Wagon is still serious, hand-hewn stuff; the kitchen even tapped Red Table Meats to assist with the recipe, but this link is given the center stage it deserves with its entree-style accompaniments rather than just a little heap of mustard and a pile of pickles.

The casing is filled with pork, naturally, but also earthy golden raisins, lush chèvre, and tangy roasted red peppers for a captivating one-bite ensemble. Leaving no corner of the flavor spectrum unchallenged, they add bitter greens, pickled Fresno chiles, and nutty sunflower seeds. The whole of it is cooked in the wood-fired pizza oven for char and smoke.

There are entire compelling worlds within the confines of this regal, grown-up skillet meal. It's what a charcuterie board gets to be when it graduates from college.

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