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63: House of Curry's Pol Roti

Roti, served here with onion chutney and Ambul Thiyal fish

Roti, served here with onion chutney and Ambul Thiyal fish

Convinced you've had it all?

Think again. The mashup of Indian and islander cuisines that is Sri Lankan food can recharge a weary palate and enliven the jaded. Something as simple as a disc of bread is unlike anything you've ever tasted.

See also: 64: The St. Paul Cheese Shop's Chorizo Sandwich

Rarely can as rustic a dish as this do triple duty, nudging the diner along on a complex journey that goes from friendly pastry to daring challenge, plus onion jam for neutral middle ground.

Hefty disks of roti bread are made fragrant and crackling by the bits of coconut embedded within. Served warm in an enticing pile like flapjacks in a stack, they become vehicles for protein and condiment application, and how you choose to approach is your pleasure and yours alone.

Will you choose a seeni sambol onion chutney, caramelized down to its essence, sweet as jam but animated with cinnamon, clove, cardamom, tamarind pulp, and chile?

Or will it be a meaty, assertive hunk of Ambul Thiya fish, rubbed generously with intensely funky curry, nose-tingling black pepper, and turmeric that insists you sit up and take notice? This is no novice eating.

Do what you ought to and slap together the world's most interesting sandwich; yin, yang, and then back again, with no stage of the teetering balancing act left unexplored.

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