A prodigiously marbled steak. A single scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. Two fingers of extravagant bourbon. Like these, toro is one of those simple yet singular foods that manages to dazzle and thrill in spite of its forthright transparency. No tricks, just high-quality treats.
Tuna toro, or the fatty belly portion of the fish, is the most prized, and can fetch the highest prices on a sushi list. But did you know that salmon belly is similarly unctuous, with the luscious mouth feel of butter?
Shag sources salmon bellies from a nearby restaurant that uses the more primary (but in our opinion, lesser) cuts of the fish for those sorts of grandpa pleasing salmon-starch-veg entrees that command $32 and will be forgotten by tomorrow. The Shag sushi chefs being the savvy dudes they are, wield their knives, spices, and pans and render it the finest dish on their menu.
Ginger, garlic, and some other spices blend together for a massage into the flesh, which is then flash-seared to seal in those flavors. Luxuriating in a lake of acidic ponzu (citrus, soy, rice vinegar), the whole of it takes on a spectrum of flavor so sweeping you'll be thinking of it for days after the fact. Add a side of rice to complete the meal.
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