As a countdown to the Best of the Twin Cities 2014, coming April 16, the Hot Dish is serving up 100 of our favorite local dishes.
The way the early daylight slides across the rough-hewn wood tables inside the Kenwood helps hitch those eyelids open even as they protest. A few cups of coffee doesn't hurt, either. However, the best way to start your day inside this stately, beautiful restaurant is over a wide, shallow bowl filled with smoked Steelhead trout and topped with two perfectly poached eggs.
The smoked trout hash ($15) is made entirely in house -- including the trout, which is gently smoked to coax a nearly creamy texture out of each tender morsel. Potatoes and celery root are shredded into ribbons, fried into a singular disc, and set on top of the fish. Atop that crust of hash browns, two glistening orbs of eggs are quivering, begging your knife to drag through them and release a river of golden yolk to mingle with that zesty, creamy horseradish sauce that finishes the dish.
Sound tantalizing? It should. Because when it's all accented by salty capers, threads of pickled onion, crisp herbs, and wonderfully snappy radishes, each bite is at once bright, briney, luscious, smoky, and crusty -- the best kind of sensory overload.