HAVING SIRED MUCH of what is considered American music, New Orleans now gets treated like an aging don--revered but not taken too seriously. Some tourists might spend an evening boozing in one of the Dixieland bars on Bourbon Street, but they leave Louisiana having effectively written off the Crescent City as a cultural wax museum, perhaps noting the royal families Neville and Marsalis as exceptions. But even when the more curious discover the joyous music beyond the French Quarter, they tend to think it a hand-me-down from Louis Armstrong and... More >>>