On a recent evening at Lee's Liquor Lounge, Louie Sirian leaned against a wall and removed one of his shoes to offer a visitor a good look at his foot. This was a repeat performance; the visitor had seen Louie's foot before. It is not an attractive sight. Horribly stunted, with splayed, twisted toes and squashed arch, it is the casualty of years of foot-binding labor--20-hour days, seven days a week, including many long hours behind a floor scrubber in the dead of night. Clean floors are an obsession with Louie, the man who has owned Lee's since 1976. Seriously clean floors. Waxed, gleaming floors. They mean something; represent an ethic, a correct way of doing things. It is not likely that Louie would survive a visit to the men's room in First Avenue. Growing up on the east side of St. Paul, Louie cleaned bars up and down the streets of his old neighborhood. He got so busy that he had to take on help, but even that rare concession gave him no relief. "Nobody else passed muster," Louie says. "The owners of these joints wanted me to do the work, because I did... More >>>