The other day, I did something I hadn't done in years. I pulled a square blue can out of the back of the cupboard, lifted the ring, and punctured its vacuum seal. The can released a primal scent—salty, sweaty, animal—a smell you'd know anywhere, even if you hadn't encountered it since the last time your father cooked you breakfast nearly two decades ago. I peeled back the metal top, flipped the can over, and squeezed it like I was trying to shimmy frozen orange juice out of... More >>>