If you follow Concord Street south from downtown St. Paul on your way to Bourbon Street Steak House, the area starts to look so desolate that by the time you pass the shuttered roadhouse La Esperanza you may have given up hope of finding the restaurant. But then the winding path opens onto a landscape of office parks and industrial buildings, out of which rises an old stone castle. It's the site of a nightclub called Valentino's, and, oddly enough, the comeback of chef Eric Austin, the "E" in the former Big E's Soul Food, renowned for its crispy fried chicken, pulled pork sandwiches, and baby-tush-soft... More >>>