"Well, they have some food you like, but it's all a little bit fancy," a mom says to her young son while perusing the oversize stand-up menu boards outside Sandcastle, the new seasonal concession stand near Lake Nokomis's main beach. Over the course of several visits, eating my way through Sandcastle's cold openers such as a refreshing watermelon and pickled radish salad, Castle Rock cheese curds with a smooth and sweet honey-Sriracha sauce for dipping, puffy American Indian fry bread filled with lean ground bison, white cheddar, and shredded lettuce, and the various ice cream novelties that are served at this brightly colored beach shack, I kept thinking about this anonymous mom's explanation. In one succinct sentence, she'd managed to describe the concept of Sandcastle with awesome accuracy. It's food that, at its core, is recognizable and familiar to a kindergartener — tacos, hot dogs, frozen bananas — but made with integrity, high-quality ingredients, and the interpretive skills of Doug Flicker, a chef renowned for his ability to keep... More >>>