Thursday, December 11, 2008 |
7 years ago
The Director of Unsalted, a documentary about the Great Lakes surf culture, talks about Stoney Point, cold water physics and shares the trailer from his movie.
-Stoney Point. It is truly one of the most unique gems out on the lake. Because of its placement on the left shore, it is in a good position to receive storm force waves and resulting offshore winds.
-This isn't about a storm 2,000 miles away. Great ocean swells get 10 to 15 seconds between waves. Stony Point sets come in much faster.
-Cold water is also dense. You need cold air to push it. It's like when you blow on a bowl of warm water warm versus a bowl of cold water. The cold warm makes bigger ripples.
-It's just humbling to see that spot [Stoney Point] and how it can be downright scary. It's powerful in the sense that you got to know what you are doing. The elements itself just raise the bar.
-Harnessing a piece of nature and becoming part of nature in a place that you just feel and know not many people have been. It's something special.
-It kind of tests you in ways that make you a better person. It raises the bar. You have to learn to be mentally prepared and physically fit.
-You are just one small little piece in this massive wave and this wave will only happen in a brief moment of time. But in that time your are fully in it. A moment of bliss, complete peace and happiness at the same time.