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Many of our best thinkers have concluded that the true work of adulthood is the raising of children. Obviously enough, if you can hook up that noble goal in a Victorian home with a porch swing in halcyon Linden Hills, you are doing all right. And then you will be making snacks, wrangling sneakers, and packing backpacks for the betterment of mankind, until you are ready to scream. That is when it is time to arrange a playdate for the little ones and head to Zumbro, for the kind of high-class comfort food that feeds the body and soul. The room is sunshiney, the staff sweet, the coffee hot and good.