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Splashy, sexy, and great service are the watchwords at downtown's glitziest contemporary Italian joint. Recommended dishes? Skip the big entrées, which tend to be too crowd-pleasing with their reliance on the sweet and the salty, and focus on the other offerings--foremost the affettato misto an appetizer platter brimming with Italian hams, salamis, cheeses, olives, salads, and a very good bruschetta. Or the wood-roasted mussels; the light, zingy caesar salad; and the show-stopping dessert sample platter, crowned with the best tiramisu in town, an ethereal little tower made of light sponge cake soaked with coffee and Marsala and layered with rich mascarpone. Lunches are value-priced and popular; reservations are recommended.