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Twin Cities restaurants that espouse a local/sustainable/organic ethic tend to fall into three categories: hippie, hipster, or haute. For all these eateries' importance, one thing they aren't-yet, at least-is mainstream. The diners you find at Heartland don't tend to frequent McDonald's, and vice versa. The Twisted Fork Grille, which shares space and ownership with the Green Mill pizza chain, is staking out new territory in locavore land by confronting the question of how a burgeoning sustainable food movement might reach beyond the early adopters. No whiff of stale pizza grease seeps into Twisted Fork, which looks like an upgraded chain pizza shop with its striped upholstery and dark wood bar. Familiar comforts are prepared with-no surprise here-a twist. Mom's meatloaf is made with bison; the house-made potato chips are made with smoked-paprika-sprinkled sweet potato chips. Prices stay low: You could get in and out of Twisted Fork for, well, about the price of a pizza.