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Think of Harvey McLain's Tosca as the Italian version of his Café Levain (he also owns the Turtle Bread empire): both hit the sweet spot between upscale and casual, restaurants that feel special enough to celebrate a birthday, but not too extravagant for a weeknight supper. Tosca's kitchen offers fresh, simple, seasonal fare. A Flavors of Spring Plate, for example, might contrast an ultra-smooth chicken-liver paté with the crisp, fresh sting of a French breakfast radish; the tart crunch of pickled ramps and fennel; the piercing sweetness of roasted grapes; and a complex rhubarb-ramp compote. The short list of entrees--pork loin with cannelloni beans, rib eye with Yukon potatoes and local mushrooms--and fresh pastas--gnocchi, and risotto--are uniformly excellent. Linden Hills' quintessential restaurant has finally arrived.