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It’s perhaps the hottest spot in a very hot restaurant neighborhood, but years later Tilia in Linden Hills still lives up to the hype. With its effortless mix of everything from hot dogs with creamy coleslaw and smoked potato chips to miso soubise scallops, the food is always on point and the atmosphere teeters between being laid-back and boisterous. To keep true to its democratic fine-dining ethos, Tilia doesn’t take reservations, but if you time it right you shouldn’t have to wait long -- and if you do, a glass of wine or one of the two-dozen, offbeat draft beer choices should be more than enough consolation. Dinner is bound to be memorable. There’s always a cut of meat or a root vegetable-based salad dressing or some sort of pepper on the menu here that no one else is doing yet. Think lamb T-Bone with white bean ragout and ravioli stuffed with salt cod brandade.