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A sidecar, clams casino, lobster thermidor, and thou--is this Miami Beach in 1958? Close, with the same deco-echoing architecture of fanciful fun and many of those classic American hotel dishes. The only difference is that here the freshness of the fish relies on airlines, not proximity to the docks, and you can get the contemporary preparations of black bass in black butter and single-malt scotches that we modern folk have become so accustomed to. Oyster fans take note: The towers of ice next to the bar now host the best oyster bar in the city.