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The folks behind the Strip Club in St. Paul replaced downtown Minneapolis's short-lived Subo with a concept rooted in early Americana. The space and menu have a comforting, retro vibe, which brings a rare sense of neighborhood to an area awash with quick skyway-level lunches, rowdy bars, and formal fine-dining restaurants. The Inn experience falls somewhere in between: They offer a fine list of handcrafted cocktails and pour their craft beer by the pitcher. Dishes tend to be hearty and meat-heavy: oxtail soup, charcuterie, house-pickled Lake Superior herring, grass-fed steaks, poached chicken with mustard-flecked crème fraiche. But the vegetables--pureed turnips, roasted peppers marinated in sherry vinaigrette--are equally delicious.