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You can see the smoke rising from blocks away at Ted Cook"s, where the barbecued meat is pit-smoked with hickory and cherry woods. The hole-in-the-wall takeout joint has been around since 1968. Big meals come with mounds of jojo potatoes at prices around $12 to $20. The coleslaw and bread sides are nothing special, but the ribs, drowned in tomato-based barbecue sauce, are a neighborhood favorite.