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You won't find any kitschy, old-school, red-and-white checked tablecloths at the new Sopranos restaurant in St. Louis Park's West End. The space is decorated in luxurious red curtains, velvety upholstery, and a bowl-shaped light fixture so enormous that sitting beneath it can test one's nerves. The Sopranos concept was created by brothers Kam and Keyvan Talebi, who own the Crave restaurant next door. And the restaurant's approach reflects a modern dining culture that prizes flexibility over formality. It's serious enough for a business meeting, swank enough for a date, accommodating enough for large-group happy hours, and casual enough to bring along the kids. Chef J.P. Samuelson, who previously owned jP American Bistro, runs the kitchen, serving everything from a delicious 24-ounce, wood-grilled T-bone to a basic plate of spaghetti and meatballs. For lunch, there are antipasti platters, panini, and even a "Juci Lucia" hamburger stuffed with mozzarella and topped with red sauce. At dinner, several of the plates resemble the work Samuelson did at his small, chef-driven bistro. For example, the paper-thin lamb carpaccio deftly dressed with pesto, chopped olives, and curls of Parmesan cheese or the fat diver scallops served with chewy faro nubs, tomato, and almonds.