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Less than 15 tables prove that the best restaurants are often the smallest. The lengthy wine list is a knockout, full of rare Italian varieties, and features good bargains in the house pours. The southern Italian dishes are painstakingly made: pastas are hand-cut, mozzarella is hand-pulled, cheeses and olive oils are of the highest quality (the ravioli is heavenly). All this began when the owners' parents Al and Lucille Smith opened a little spot so they would have somewhere to eat like they did when they were in Italy, but now a generation of epicurean bargain hunters reap the rewards. Reservations are a must, and tables are so near one another you'll be tempted to reach over to your neighbors' plates--but hey, you're not the only one searching for first-date paradiso.