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Rainbow reigns and Rainbow rules because Rainbow has realized what every restaurant really relishes--simultaneous critical acclaim and popular success. Chinese-food connoisseurs come for the string beans with preserved cabbage and the squid with pickled mustard greens, while the hoi polloi clamor for Rainbow's perfect executions of Chinese standards like moo-shu pork and sesame chicken. Who are the monarchs hereabout? The five Wong sisters, and their beneficent rule has meant prosperity for this quiet end of Nicollet Avenue and tasty Szechuan wontons for all.