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A spirit of smoke dwells in the paper-crisp crust and tender, springy heat of every Punch pizza, which arrives from the wood-fired brick oven like a greeting from an artisan age during which every morsel of fresh mozzarella was as delicate as springtime, every imported San Marzano tomato was as big as summer, and zesty toppings like cayenne salami and picholine olives set the sky on fire. But it's not just the pizza. The salads are good, and the wine list is a moderately priced, pizza-friendly dream come true. So join us in a citywide howl to the heavens: "Why doesn't my block have a pizza joint this good?" Dinner.