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Elegant as lace curtains, Ngon Bistro is a Frogtown Vietnamese restaurant for the next generation: Consider the lace curtains, pretty acres of which blanket the sunny front windows--those are just not the kind of grace note you commonly find in Frogtown. Neither are the glass-bedecked wall sconces, the all-Minnesota artisinal beer list, or the wine-bar-worthy wine list. While the restaurant offers American bistro staples, its Vietnamese classics tend to be stronger: The beef pho might just be the best in the state, with a sweet, winter-spice accented broth. The broken rice plates, com tam, are artful and satisfying, with slices of English cucumber, sweet pickled carrot and daikon, and your add-in of choice, like gingery shrimp or three sorts of pork and fried egg, arranged like sculpture around a pretty molded disk of broken rice. With prices steadfastly in the Frogtown tradition--well under $10 for most traditional Vietnamese entrees--and all that style and fantastic beverages, Ngon is doing its darndest to prove that the Frogtown of the now is the best it's ever been.